Title: Predicting Men's Fashion Trends in 2025: Double Denim, Shearling, and a Dose of Romance
The recent men's fashion shows in Milan for the Fall-Winter 2025 season veered away from the typical jovial atmosphere. Instead, the stage was set for a dual purpose: preserving classic fabrics such as shearling, leather, and denim, and innovating with top-tier performance materials.
"The world is becoming increasingly conservative, and everyone expects us designers to be revolutionary, but what's happening in the world isn't a celebration," Prada's head designer, Miuccia Prada, shared backstage. She further explained that her collection was, "a bit of an answer, as always, to what’s happening."
Shearling reinvented with a twist
The Prada runway was splashed with coats and jackets adorned in faux fur, setting the tone for a collection with a rugged edge. The brand leaned into iconic favorites such as chunky, frayed knitwear and patchwork leather suits.
The use of shearling by Prada and co-creative director Raf Simons went beyond traditional boundaries. The distinctive material was featured as protective lining in hoods and long peacoats. Elsewhere, shearling took the form of talisman-like amulets on shrunken and frayed knits.
"With shearling, it transforms into a layer of sensual security, which can be worn both inside and out," Prada and Simons explained, reflecting on their innovative approach to this familiar fabric. The protection-themed knitwear was enhanced with metal symbols, akin to amulets, "offering a way to protect us," they added.
Investment pieces that are timeless
Simon Holloway, the creative director for British menswear brand Dunhill, emphasized "consistent and appropriate wardrobing" in his show notes for his third collection. To achieve this, he looked back to the sporty, Duke of Windsor-inspired suits of the 1930s.
Holloway also revisited Dunhill’s illustrious archive, focusing on founder Alfred Dunhill's car coats made of double-faced suede and wool-cashmere. By combining these historic designs with modern sophistication, he delivered investment staples that could stand the test of time.
Italian luxury footwear brand Tod's celebrated minimalistic elegance by introducing an ultra-light nappa pashmy leather and featuring the Gommino driving shoe as the star of the show.
At Dolce & Gabbana, the designers revitalized their Italian heritage by drawing inspiration from Federico Fellini's "La Dolce Vita," where the term "Paparazzi" originated. To emphasize the point, they showcased models equipped with cameras, capturing a flurry of flashbulbs each time a model graced the catwalk.
Double denim's comeback
Few materials are as reliable in a man's wardrobe as denim, and this season, designers went all-in on the durable material. Massimo Giorgetti at MSGM opted for a full double denim ensemble. Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana and Prada also incorporated denim into their collections.
Even brands not known for denim, such as Brunello Cuccinelli, dabbled in the iconic fabric. Here, raw-edged denim was used in combination with classic cashmere neutrals. Dunhill paired a classic houndstooth blazer and neckerchief with a perfectly pressed pair of jeans.
Taking performance to new heights
Brands didn't shy away from embracing cutting-edge materials and high-performance outerwear. Saul Nash, a London-based designer making his Milan debut, showcased enveloping parkas made using PrimaLoft padding and chunky cummerbunds that transformed into scarves or crossbody bags.
Italian luxury fashion house Stone Island revisited the "Bladerunner" mood board for its collection, featuring a new hardwearing gabardine fabric made from castoff materials. An anorak with rubber-covered buttonholes and a high-neck hood completed the ensemble, offering added protection.
Brioni blended traditional blazer construction with detachable insulating gilets, marking a first for the brand. Valextra, the Milanese leather goods brand, expanded its Assoluto collection made from EcoNyl—a regenerated nylon yarn. This innovative blend merged technical advancements with traditional craftsmanship.
At Mordecai, creative director Ludovico Bruno's show, "The Intelligence of Others," was an ode to resilience and the exceptional adaptability of human beings. The collection featured oversized, padded, and cocooning outerwear, designed to serve as shields and provide comfort during challenging times.
Embracing the high-octane theme
The resilient mood was also evident in the Giorgio Armani show, where models strutted down the runway in full-blown high-performance hiking and skiing attire. Each ensemble was complete with backpacks, ropes, and goggles, turning the fashion presentation into an outdoor adventure.
The message of hope and togetherness was also echoed throughout other shows. "My wish for this new year is peace and serenity in the world, and there are finally some encouraging signs," Armani told CNN. Perhaps the best demonstration of this came during the JordanLuca show, where co-designers and founders Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto surprised guests by getting married on the catwalk at the show’s conclusion.
"In today's atomized world, love becomes more crucial and unselfish than ever, as we walk together into whatever comes next," they shared.
The innovative use of shearling by Prada and Simons extended beyond traditional boundaries, transforming it into a layer of sensual security found in hoods and long peacoats, as well as talisman-like amulets on shrunken and frayed knits.
Investing in timeless pieces that have a strong historical basis, like the sporty, Duke of Windsor-inspired suits from the 1930s or the car coats made of double-faced suede and wool-cashmere from Dunhill's archive, can result in wardrobe staples that stand the test of time.
